Houston's leading chef, Robert Del Grande, who popularized Southwestern cuisine in the '80s and '90s, has shared this deceptively simple yet genius chili and pork stew recipe. Deviating from the typical Mexican and New Mexican chile verde, Del Grande's recipe calls for baby back ribs instead of a standard stew meat, like shoulder, and omits tomatillos to boost the flavor of green chile.

What is particularly exciting about this stew is the dual role played by the two varieties of chilies. Initially, ripe green serrano chiles, hotter and more pungent than average jalapeños, are used to infuse flavor into the broth, which is simmered with the ribs along with onions and garlic. Del Grande also includes poblanos, a mellow, more sizeable pepper, which he roasts until they morph into a smoky and soft version of themselves before blending into the stew.

To prepare this alluring stew, gather the ingredients: 6 pounds of baby back ribs, cut into 3-rib sections and membranes removed, 4 teaspoons of salt, 2 coarsely chopped white onions, 4 garlic cloves, 4 serrano chilies and 4 poblano chilies - roasted, skinned, stemmed, seeded, and chopped, 4 toasted white corn tortillas torn into small pieces, a finely chopped bunch of cilantro and, for serving, crumbled Cotija or feta cheese, sliced radishes, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs.

Begin with a large, deep pot. Simmer the ribs in 10 cups of water with the added salt until meat is tender, taking about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the ribs to a plate and remove excess fat from the cooking liquid - there should be approximately 6 cups left. The onions, garlic, and serranos are then added to the pot and boiled before reducing heat and allowing to simmer for 20 minutes. Add the poblanos and tortilla pieces, allow to cool, and then blend the liquid into a coarse puree in parts.

The puree is then returned to the pot along with the ribs and simmered over moderate heat till the stew thickens slightly, after about 15 minutes. Finally, the finely chopped cilantro is stirred in. It is served hot, topped with cheese, radishes, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs – a tribute to Southwest cuisine's deeply satisfying and subtly complex flavors.