Often recognized for its central wood-burning brick oven, San Francisco's Zuni Café offers an irresistible temptation to its diners: the luxurious indulgence of a perfectly roasted chicken. This menu choice wasn't a spontaneous addition, but in fact part of a calculated move by the late Judy Rodgers, who owned the restaurant until her death in 2013. Rodgers introduced the renowned chicken dish as a strategic use of the oven space, but moreover to challenge traditional perceptions of poultry.

Rodgers was well aware of how diners often overlooked chicken at restaurants, as it was a staple food at home. She was, however, inspired by the stunning roast chicken she tasted during her time as a student in France living with chef Jean Troisgros. Her experience of eating home-cooked meals, including the delicious rotisserie chicken she acquired from the market, left indelible memories. Rodgers sought to recreate this feeling with her 'everyday, traditional food' concept at her restaurant.

Zuni Café’s roast chicken served with a side of bread salad is unpretentious yet reliable. It's all about remembering to salt the chicken a day or two in advance. The juicy chicken is combined with a crispy, salty skin, which perfectly accompanies the bread salad flavored with currants and a hint of chicory bitterness. A comforting choice for a Sunday night dinner.

Zuni’s and Rodgers' dry-brining technique, also referred to as pre-salting the bird, revolutionized how chicken was prepared. Rodgers learned this technique during her early career in the south-west of France, when she was advised by a fellow chef to salt the remaining sea bass at the end of the night, the result was a burst of succulent flavors.

In a 2013 interview, Rodgers revealed that, contrary to popular belief, salt – not marinade – is the secret to a juicy chicken. Her explanation was that while rubbing herbs on the surface flavours only the exterior, salting the bird along with aromatics allows the herbs to be absorbed into the meat, thanks to the salty molecules, making it juicier and tenderer.

Retesting of this recipe within the Food & Wine test kitchen brought a realization that over time, some essential details of Rodgers’s original recipe had been forgotten, such as the soft bread specified in her 2002 cookbook, the dried cranberries which were swapped for currants, and the occasional substitute of radicchio with arugula in the salad due to lack of availability. But the essence of Rodger's culinary philosophy remained.

Understanding that it is challenging to maintain a dish's original essence amidst changes in tastes, poultry size, and the availability of quality ingredients over decades, it was decided to let the recipe evolve along with changing times and tastes. This brought forth the question, "How do you make something as simple as roast chicken special?" The secret lies in the homage to original techniques while respecting current trends, sourcing small, quality birds, and learning to adapt while maintaining the integrity of the legendary recipe. The essence of Zuni Café’s roast chicken and bread salad continues to captivate palates, proving that some of the most humble meals hold the most unforgettable experiences.