In Greece, midway through the day, tables start to overflow with crispy calamari and salads soaked in olive oil. The distinctive sound of ice clinking against tall slim glasses hosting a robust, licorice-scented aperitif mixed with water can be heard. This announces the beginning of the traditional ouzo ritual.

Nothing screams “Greece” like a shot of ouzo, a hard spirit loved and celebrated across the nation and neighboring Cyprus. Flavored with anise or fennel, the spirit has a camp split down the middle; you're either a fanatic or maybe you detest it. Should you harbor a fondness for licorice, this is our guide on where ouzo comes from, and how best to relish it.

The lineage of ouzo can be traced back to tsipouro, an authentic Greek spirit derived from grape pomace that was occasionally flavored with anise. The name "ouzo" is widely believed to have originated from an Italian trading company’s particularly anise-tasting batch labelled as “uso Massalia” (read, for use in Marseille, the intended destination of the batch). The label was subsequently shortened to "ouzo."

“Some people, however, think the moniker comes from the ancient Greek verb for 'to smell,' or 'ozo,’” Myrto Spentzas, co-owner of Spentzas Distillery in Mytilene, Greece, points out. Spentzas Distillery specializes in traditional ouzo production.

As the years passed, the connection between ouzo and tsipouro diminished, and the first dedicated ouzo distillery was established in Tyrnavos by Nikolaos Katsaros in 1856. In 2006, a full century and a half later, the European Union granted ouzo a protected designation of origin (PDO), effectively enabling only Greece to manufacture and use this distinctive name.

“When one adds water or ice, ouzo turns into a milky white. This phenomenon is known as the ‘ouzo effect,’ or ‘louche.’ This happens as the anethole becomes insoluble in water.” informs Elias Stergiopoulos, bartender and brand ambassador at Pernod Ricard. He also talks about the current rules, that stipulate the use of a copper still called an amvyka for the production of the spirit.

Stergiopoulos explains how a base made of neutral alcohol derived from either grapes or grains, is distilled with anise seeds and other spices including fennel, coriander, cloves, and cinnamon. The exact mix varies, he notes, depending on the secret recipe of the distiller. Ingredients also might include nutmeg, mastic, cardamom, mint, ginger, and citrus.

Ouzo has been produced by the Katsaros family for an impressive 167 years, according to Evangelia Gkougkouliana, chemist and enologist at the Katsaros Distillery. Not willing to share the full exclusivity of their recipe, she will only say "we use a total of 13 special herbs in our version."

The sweetness of ouzo varies depending on the region of Greece. In Macedonia, sugar is typically not added which results in a drier ouzo while in southern Greece, sugar is usually present in the mix.

The distillation process of ouzo involves two or three passes, following which it's then watered down to reduce its alcohol by volume to an average range of 37-40%. “Ouzo gains its clear appearance at this proof due to the anethole, or the essential oil derived from anise, which can then dissolve in the alcohol,” Stergiopoulos says.

Ouzo is best consumed neat, or alternatively, with water and ice. It's optimal to mix approximately two to three parts water with one part ouzo.

"In Greece, ouzo is typically served in tall glasses called 'solines' or 'kanonakia,’” Spentza says. “Ouzo should be poured first, followed closely by cold water, and then ice. It's important to avoid adding ice directly to ouzo as it traps the anise's essential oils, forming crystals on its surface.”

Ouzo is designed to be savored alongside food and is frequently viewed as a palate cleanser.

“It works wonderfully with mezedes (small dishes), Greek appetizers, and seafood in general.” Stergiopoulos suggests, painting a picture of dishes brimming with charred octopus, fried calamari, briny sardines, delicate feta cheese, creamy tzatziki, and pickled eggplants.

In recent years, innovative bartenders have incorporated ouzo into their cocktails.

For an invigorating early-evening concoction, Gkougkouliana advises mixing vodka, ouzo, orange juice, a sprinkle of sugar, and water. “Another crowd-pleaser is the Cosmogreek, a Greek spin on the classic Cosmopolitan. It's a mix of vodka, raspberry juice, lime juice, and a dash of ouzo.”

Finally, to truly appreciate this beverage, here are some top-notch ouzo brands to sample:

Katsaros: As one of the oldest ouzo distilleries, it is lauded as one of the premier ouzo producers. Known for its blend of 14 botanicals, the strong anise flavor is beautifully rounded off with a light mixture of Mediterranean herbs.

Ouzo 12 - This creation by the Kalogiannis Distillery, founded in 1880, is admired for its aromatic profile. Ouzo 12 offers a smooth, pure taste with undertones of sharp fennel and fiery cinnamon.

Ouzo Mini - Produced in Mytilene, this is a preferred choice of Stergiopoulos. The brand uses anise from the Lisvori region, believed to produce the world’s best anise. Slightly bitter and spicy, Ouzo Mini is best enjoyed with food.

Verino Ouzo - This particular ouzo is celebrated for its silky, bright, and slightly sweet flavor, making it a first pick for those who prefer their ouzo neat.