The complexities of beer never delighted Meli Samara Oster. For her, beer was usually too malty, too bitter, generally too intense. Yet during a 2019 journey to Peru, Oster's perception did a swift 180. She discovered a refreshing beer, partially brewed from quinoa, and this single instance of delight sparked a radical thought: How about a beer formulated especially for those whose taste buds rejected conventional beers? Jumping ahead to 2025, Oster stands proudly as the founder of Meli, the pioneer of 100% quinoa-based beer in America. Without added sugar, entirely gluten-free, and containing a modest 4.4% ABV, Meli aims to charm wellness-conscious beer enthusiasts. Hitting the market earlier this spring, Meli has quickly begun to establish its niche among those who have previously felt excluded from the beer consumer base.

"In what came as a surprise to many, I was not a beer aficionado when I conceived the idea for Meli," Oster confessed to Food & Wine. While journeying across Peru, she encountered a unique beer infused with both barley and quinoa. Drawn by the intriguing incorporation of quinoa, Oster decided to take her chances with it. The sip was a revelation – it had a crisp, light taste devoid of the maltiness and bitterness prevalent in regular beers.

This experimental curiosity accompanied Oster back home to Boston, where she engaged a group of food scientists from MIT to explore quinoa fermentation. Armed with academic credentials from both Harvard and MIT, Oster noticed that quinoa behaved quite differently in the fermentation process compared to conventional brewing ingredients like wheat and barley.

Given its minute size compared to conventional grains, quinoa proved quite a handful to deal with. The challenges this posed in accessing the sugars vital to the fermentation process and preventing clogging in the brewing equipment, Oster admitted, made them reconsider every step of the brewing process. Over three years and more than a 100 formula tweaks later, they finally achieved a recipe that worked.

Quinoa, as an ingredient, was a whole new landscape to explore. Different varieties produced unique results, necessitating meticulous adjustments to achieve the perfect final product. As per Oster, the characteristics of quinoa are significantly influenced by the geographical area it is grown in – its protein and carbohydrate content, mineral composition and more. After extensive trials, they were able to discern the quinoa type that yields the finest beer and the method to upscale production ensuring no compromise on taste.

Traditionally, quinoa has been a significant part of Andean agriculture and culture, extensively used in fermented beverages like chicha. In recent times, brewing incorporating quinoa has been gaining traction in Latin America and beyond. Meli's approach of 100% quinoa content in their beer is a giant leap forward in building upon this heritage and successfully demonstrating the scalability for commercial production in the U.S.

The result of these painstaking processes is Meli, a light, drinkable beer brewed with ethically sourced organic quinoa. It not only offers a mild sweetness and essential nutrients but also 7% of your daily potassium requirement. However, Meli isn't only for gluten or sugar avoidance; it's for anyone seeking a beer that is as satisfying as it is delicious.

The vision for Meli, as per Oster, is to serve those who prioritize wellness and balance in their life. "They might not be regular drinkers, but when they do indulge, they prefer something well-crafted and intentional," she said. She hopes Meli can fill the void in the beer landscape for those looking for guiltless indulgence.

"In a context where alcohol is generally stigmatized, I wish to showcase with Meli, a way to indulge mindfully," she stated. "Lots of people aim to maintain health-consciousness but also want to partake in life's pleasures. My ambition is to serve an option that doesn't leave you queasy the next morning with no gluten, no sugar, no added frills. Just clean ingredients, and a beer that's refreshing to the palate and easy on the body.”

Currently, Meli is available for purchase at select retail outlets in Massachusetts and online at drinkmeli.com.