You may be aware of how a Burgundy Chardonnay tastes distinctly different from a Bulgarian Chardonnay. These taste variations arise not just from different farming practices or types of soil, but also from the specific grape clone used.

Essentially, a grape clone is a registered version of a grape variety, and within commonly used grape varieties like Chardonnay, there are numerous clones available. Think of them as jersey numbers in sports, where specific clone numbers signify outstanding quality. The two 'superstars' of the grape clone league are the Dijon and Pommard clones.

Historically, grape growers would mass cultivate the strongest and best-performing vines. During the 19th century, this practice was refined when German growers began to propagate cuttings from promising vines across generations, ensuring they were robust, capable of producing consistently great wines.

In the 1970s and 80s, the advancement of clonal research gave rise to more modernized clones. They were developed in Burgundy, in conjunction with the University of Dijon and the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique (INRA). Today, universities and research institutions globally are developing clones to create delicious, but also climate-resilient, varieties of grapes.

For wine enthusiasts, it's worthwhile to learn more about clones and seek out wines made from particular ones. Climate has a significant impact on grapes; certain clones, once planted, were found ill-suited for the weather or incapable of producing the desired complex, elegant wines.

At Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in New York's Finger Lakes region, co-owner Oskar Bynke spoke of their journey with grape clones. Initially, they planted Bordeaux mainstays, but as their understanding of the region's grape potential improved, they shifted to other clones that could add different nuances to the wine.

As wine-producing regions like Central Otago in New Zealand grew, access to a range of grape clones played a significant role in their success. Yet, as viticulturist Timbo Deaker points out, the use of clones has evolved considerably over time.

At Simpson Family Estates in Michigan, Drew Perry adopts a 'fruit salad' approach to clone planting, experimenting with new clones to enhance and diversify their wine quality. Similarly, Jason Tosch at the Stoller Family Estate in Oregon uses a variety of clones to ensure a nuanced, consistent wine production even in challenging vintages.

Yet, the progress in understanding and using clones was tested with the rapid changes in climate. Climate change hasn't just meant hotter temperatures, but a rise in extreme weather events.

Winemakers are now choosing clones, keeping unpredictable climate changes in mind. Nicole Marchesi, winemaker at California's Far Niente, emphasizes the goal is always to produce outstanding wines. Using resilient clones allows for more sustainable practices in the vineyard.

Adaptation to the changing climate is not the only reason vintners consider different clones, though. Some vintners have noticed significant improvements in wine quality due to clone variations. In the Cape Winelands of South Africa, Bruwer Raats of Raats Family Wines claims clone shifts greatly improved the quality of their Chenin Blanc wines.

In conclusion, while clone selection alone may not determine a wine's success, amidst climate change and the pursuit of exceptional quality, the right clone could provide that crucial advantage that distinguishes an excellent wine from a simply good one.