Tucked away in Oakland’s bustling gourmet realm, Steve Joo has lovingly built an unpretentious banchan shop ingrained with a sense of purpose, creativity, and a reverence for raw materials.

At Joodooboo, his tofu-driven diner, Joo offers a unique perspective on Korean cuisine viewed through the golden state’s culinary prism. His cooking style is sculpted by his robust experience at prestigious eateries such as Chez Panisse and Terra, and profoundly affected by his stint in Korea during 2014. In a quest to learn more about Korean cuisine and ancestral fermentation techniques from rural cooks, Joo came across a tofu so extraordinary it not only realigned his trajectory but led him to a mentorship in mastering dooboo (Korean for tofu).

For Joo, preparing tofu transcended a mere culinary task to a peaceful mental exercise, becoming the very essence of Joodooboo. His methodology keeps evolving, driven by his fascination. “We sustain a certain curiosity," he remarks, noting that slight shifts in temperature or stirring and setting duration can drastically modify the end product. For him, playfulness and discovery are integral parts of this procedure. Joo's tofu, silky, layered, and wobbly, is sublimely crafted like a pudding. Comprising only soybeans, water, and a natural sea salt coagulant, this tofu calls for immense dedication and patience. "We provide it additional time,” Joo discloses, “as the outcome is superior.”

This thoughtful approach seeps into his limited-edition banchan, such as the evolving green tomato kimchi, reflecting its seasonal and impromptu nature. Crafting each plate, Joo visualizes, "What would a Korean grandmother do if she was relocated to Northern California with local produce?" Primarily sourcing fresh ingredients from local growers and acquaintances, the ingredients direct the course for him. “Ingredients have a distinct voice,” he comments. “We ameliorate them in a manner where they can articulate for themselves.”

What started as a humble deli vending tofu and banchan, Joodooboo has progressively become a full-service diner, boasting a menu that now presents large platters. There’s the invigorating and zesty nori acorn noodle bowl, a likely crowd favorite, that teases the palate with chilled acorn noodles dressed in nori vinaigrette, pickled mushrooms, cucumbers, and kimchi.

Joo ambitiously aims to nurture people with conscientious hospitality, considering it an act of love, not an ostentatious display. "Ensure that you look after them as you would for a dear friend,” he advises his crew. This conviction spills onto his neighborhood, where he sees Joodooboo as part and parcel of the community fabric. The deep-rooted personal project reflects Joo’s culinary creed, life expedition, and an unwavering faith in food’s ability to bind people – a kind of enchanting sorcery that only food can conjure.

His signature dishes range from Half Moon Bay flounder seasoned with potato and rice flours served over broiled Sun Gold tomatoes stewed with ginger, garlic, white wine, kimchi, and olive oil, to freshly caught Half Moon Bay squid he salt-cures and carefully seasons with chilies and sesame. There’s also his exquisitely reimagined Korean dipping sauce served with a set meal of his trademark homemade dooboo, accompanied by delicacies such as Yukon Golds stewed with shiitake mushrooms and a green salad adorned with a gingery apricot and jujube vinaigrette.